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54 minutes ago, Mr.Vic20 said:

I honestly have no experience with Samsung's line. I've been sticking with LG ever since they lead the high end OLED charge. At this point, I can't imagine having any display that isn't OLED, because I'm spoiled! 

 

agree. I cant wait to setup the G8 monitor I got. OLED or nothing (at least until something better comes along)

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I grabbed the S89c. Its actually the same panel as the S90c with a different stand exclusive to BB. Ive watched and read a bunch of reviews and the consensus is that for TV/Movies it doesnt get quite as bright as the G3, but it has better color (post calibration). However, it’s supposed to be considerably better for gaming (better HDR, 144hz refresh rate, gaming hub, sharper text, lower latency). 

 

if I dont like, ill bring it back. 

 

ok I think im done setting money on fire now. 

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Quote

Tesla launched its first Dojo ExaPod supercomputer in 2023, which was built using custom AI chips and is reportedly capable of delivering up to 1.1 exaflops of computing power to train the machine learning models in the company's self-driving technology.

Now, in a post on X (formerly Twitter), Musk confirmed that Tesla is intending to spend over a billion dollars on Nvidia's H100 and AMD's Instinct MI300 hardware this year.

Following a discussion about Tesla’s new $500 million project for the New York Gigafactory, Musk pointed out that while that seems like a lot of money - and it obviously is – that’s only enough to buy 10,000 Nvidia H100 AI GPUs. Tesla, he said, will spend much more than that on Nvidia hardware this year. “The table stakes for being competitive in AI are at least several billion dollars per year at this point,” he said. 

 

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Almost all 8k TVs are garbage in terms of picture quality & image processing vs flagship 4k ones. There’s zero reason to get one until this changes: 4k and HD content will typically look noticeably worse on 8k displays due to their poor processing. I wish it was just a “there’s no 8k content so it’s pointless right now!” thing, but it’s the actual panels and internals sucking except in a couple of models.

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9 hours ago, atom631 said:

I grabbed the S89c. Its actually the same panel as the S90c with a different stand exclusive to BB. Ive watched and read a bunch of reviews and the consensus is that for TV/Movies it doesnt get quite as bright as the G3, but it has better color (post calibration). However, it’s supposed to be considerably better for gaming (better HDR, 144hz refresh rate, gaming hub, sharper text, lower latency). 

 

if I dont like, ill bring it back. 

 

ok I think im done setting money on fire now. 


They’re good TVs, definitely need to calibrate them more-so than Sony’s QD-OLED (and W-OLED) and LG W-OLED out of the box. Use Rtings recommendation or find common settings on Reddit as the S90c tends to tint greenish out of the box iirc. The only reason I personally wouldn’t go with Samsung is the lack of Dolby Vision, if that winds up bothering you switch out to Sony’s QD-OLED (just note that it only has 2x HDMI 2.1) or a G3. :sun:

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18 hours ago, Spork3245 said:


They’re good TVs, definitely need to calibrate them more-so than Sony’s QD-OLED (and W-OLED) and LG W-OLED out of the box. Use Rtings recommendation or find common settings on Reddit as the S90c tends to tint greenish out of the box iirc. The only reason I personally wouldn’t go with Samsung is the lack of Dolby Vision, if that winds up bothering you switch out to Sony’s QD-OLED (just note that it only has 2x HDMI 2.1) or a G3. :sun:

 

ultimately, I would love to get a G3. But as of now, its literally $1700 more, almost double. At it lowest it was $2800, still 1K more. If in the next 60 days it miraculously drops to 2400 or less, Id probably return this and grab it. 

 

Not having DV definitely bothers me. Although everything Ive read said that it shouldn’t be a deal breaker. It does do HDR10+ which supposedly gets pretty close to DV, but not much content out there that supports it. Although my Apple TV does support HDR10+, I dont think my receiver does (Denon AVRX-3400H), The receiver has eArc, HDCP2.2, HDMI 2.1, DV, HLG and HDR10. But I cant find anything if it does 10+. 

 

Which brings me to my next issue. The TV only has 4x HDMI ports. If I want to take full advantage of VRR, 120hz, etc I need to run the XSX, PS5, PC directly to the TV and eArc back down to the receiver for surround sound. This doesnt leave me an HDMI port for my ATV or the Switch. So I have to send those 2 to the receiver first. Which means if the receiver doesnt do HDR10+, then I lose out on that feature and just have to just stick with standard HDR. Either way though Id imagine this TV should be a big step up from OLED67B7A that is 6+yrs old at this point, DV or no DV. 

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5 hours ago, atom631 said:

 

ultimately, I would love to get a G3. But as of now, its literally $1700 more, almost double. At it lowest it was $2800, still 1K more. If in the next 60 days it miraculously drops to 2400 or less, Id probably return this and grab it. 

 

Not having DV definitely bothers me. Although everything Ive read said that it shouldn’t be a deal breaker. It does do HDR10+ which supposedly gets pretty close to DV, but not much content out there that supports it. Although my Apple TV does support HDR10+, I dont think my receiver does (Denon AVRX-3400H), The receiver has eArc, HDCP2.2, HDMI 2.1, DV, HLG and HDR10. But I cant find anything if it does 10+. 

 

Which brings me to my next issue. The TV only has 4x HDMI ports. If I want to take full advantage of VRR, 120hz, etc I need to run the XSX, PS5, PC directly to the TV and eArc back down to the receiver for surround sound. This doesnt leave me an HDMI port for my ATV or the Switch. So I have to send those 2 to the receiver first. Which means if the receiver doesnt do HDR10+, then I lose out on that feature and just have to just stick with standard HDR. Either way though Id imagine this TV should be a big step up from OLED67B7A that is 6+yrs old at this point, DV or no DV. 


Yea, the G3 can be pricey. Unfortunately, the support for HDR10+ isn’t nearly has high as regular HDR or DV, but you might not really notice much difference if you’re just streaming, so I wouldn’t worry too much about the ATV, and Switch doesn’t support VRR or HDR at all so just run that through your receiver.
Check your receiver model as the 3000 Denons are HDMI 2.0b, not 2.1 (I have that same model). They do support eARC despite being 2.0b though, but you need an HDMI cable with network support as the receiver uses the network bandwidth to be able to use eARC as opposed to regular ARC, HOWEVER, it’s finicky with some TVs; I ultimately had to get an eARC adapter/passthrough for my CX because it would only transmit stereo when eARC was enabled. If you have trouble getting eARC to work on the TV let me know and I’ll link you to the eARC enabling passthrough device I used.

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2 hours ago, Spork3245 said:


Yea, the G3 can be pricey. Unfortunately, the support for HDR10+ isn’t nearly has high as regular HDR or DV, but you might not really notice much difference if you’re just streaming, so I wouldn’t worry too much about the ATV, and Switch doesn’t support VRR or HDR at all so just run that through your receiver.
Check your receiver model as the 3000 Denons are HDMI 2.0b, not 2.1 (I have that same model). They do support eARC despite being 2.0b though, but you need an HDMI cable with network support as the receiver uses the network bandwidth to be able to use eARC as opposed to regular ARC, HOWEVER, it’s finicky with some TVs; I ultimately had to get an eARC adapter/passthrough for my CX because it would only transmit stereo when eARC was enabled. If you have trouble getting eARC to work on the TV let me know and I’ll link you to the eARC enabling passthrough device I used.

 

yeah I guess if the receiver is limited to 4K/60 then its probably not HDMI 2.1. 

 

the TV has an optical audio out. why wouldnt i use this instead of hdmi/eArc ? This would free up an HDMI port for the ATV.  The switch is hardly used on the TV and the PC will probably live in my office 75% of the time. so I could always just swap hdmi between switch/pc when needed. 

 

my current speaker setup is Klipsch RP-160m bookshelves for front, RP-240s surrounds, RP-440c center and an SVS SB-2000 sub. So a 5.1 setup. this will never change to 7.1/Atmos since the room cannot accommodate more speakers. 

 

also - I ordered these cables. will they work for eArc? 

 

WWW.MONOPRICE.COM

 

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24 minutes ago, atom631 said:

 

yeah I guess if the receiver is limited to 4K/60 then its probably not HDMI 2.1. 


 

 

Yea, Denon didn’t have 2.1 until the 4000 series and that had the VRR issue (every receiver brand had it) iirc, so true 2.1 wasn’t available until the 5000 series.

 

24 minutes ago, atom631 said:

the TV has an optical audio out. why wouldnt i use this instead of hdmi/eArc ? This would free up an HDMI port for the ATV.  The switch is hardly used on the TV and the PC will probably live in my office 75% of the time. so I could always just swap hdmi between switch/pc when needed. 


 

 

Optical won’t support lossless audio or “HD” audio formats, so you’d potentially be sacrificing some audio quality.

The switch doesn’t even do 4k, let alone HDR, so just run that through your receiver. There’s no benefit to plugging the switch into your TV over your receiver.

 

24 minutes ago, atom631 said:

my current speaker setup is Klipsch RP-160m bookshelves for front, RP-240s surrounds, RP-440c center and an SVS SB-2000 sub. So a 5.1 setup. this will never change to 7.1/Atmos since the room cannot accommodate more speakers. 


 

 

While optical will do 5.1, it won’t support lossless audio formats. It’s up to you and how good your ears are.

 

24 minutes ago, atom631 said:

also - I ordered these cables. will they work for eArc? 

 

WWW.MONOPRICE.COM

 


Technically they should, but the 3000 series is finicky so you won’t know until you plug it in. :p 

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@atom631it looks like Samsung TVs won’t decode Dolby Digital (5.1) if it’s being done via passthrough from HDMI to Optical via ARC or eARC because Samsung, so you might experience issues where you only get Stereo sound via optical. Because you’d be having the receiver do the output to optical it might not be an issue but you won’t know until you try 🤷‍♂️ 

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27 minutes ago, Spork3245 said:

@atom631it looks like Samsung TVs won’t decode Dolby Digital (5.1) if it’s being done via passthrough from HDMI to Optical via ARC or eARC because Samsung, so you might experience issues where you only get Stereo sound via optical. Because you’d be having the receiver do the output to optical it might not be an issue but you won’t know until you try 🤷‍♂️ 

 

ok then eArc it is. hopefully it works. 

 

what about using an hdmi splitter like this? or would it add too much latency. thinking since the ps5/xsx tv screen settings wont change, put them on the splitter.  then ATV on a dedicated port for hdr10+, PC on its own port. eArc to the receiver. switch connected to receiver. 

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9 minutes ago, atom631 said:

 

ok then eArc it is. hopefully it works. 

 

what about using an hdmi splitter like this? or would it add too much latency. thinking since the ps5/xsx tv screen settings wont change, put them on the splitter.  then ATV on a dedicated port for hdr10+, PC on its own port. eArc to the receiver. switch connected to receiver. 


Yea, you can use a splitter, I’m not sure if it’ll add any latency or not. Google for reviews on that model before you buy it. I’d put the ATV on that splitter since it supports HDR10+ passthrough.

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10 hours ago, Spork3245 said:
WWW.THENAUDIO.COM

Convert eARC audio to your existing audio system

 

It's currently OOS, but you can email the owner to see when they expect more in. He responds super quickly in my experience.

 

what did this run you?

 

so with this, aside from fixing potential eArc issues, I also get 2 extra inputs? Does it auto switch or do i manually have to select the source? And using these inputs, whatever the HDMI port on the TV is, the devices would share the same picture settings. but it will also pass audio from the other ports on the TV to the receiver?  

 

if the above is true - then I would use this for the PS5 and XSX with “game” screen settings on that port. Put the ATV on its own port with “cinema settings”. PC on its own port with “PC settings”. And I could then just use the last port for the Switch. 

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7 hours ago, atom631 said:

 

what did this run you?

 

 

It was $228 in 2022 when I got one.

 

7 hours ago, atom631 said:

so with this, aside from fixing potential eArc issues, I also get 2 extra inputs? Does it auto switch or do i manually have to select the source? And using these inputs, whatever the HDMI port on the TV is, the devices would share the same picture settings. but it will also pass audio from the other ports on the TV to the receiver?  

 

 

Yea, whatever devices you have plugged into it’s HDMI ports would share the same HDMI port just as it would be on a switch. I believe mine auto-switches but they have been updated to have an IR sensor so you can tie a universal remote to it to manually switch as well.

 

7 hours ago, atom631 said:

if the above is true - then I would use this for the PS5 and XSX with “game” screen settings on that port. Put the ATV on its own port with “cinema settings”. PC on its own port with “PC settings”. And I could then just use the last port for the Switch. 

 

You’d want your receiver to be the main on it. Look at the pictures and you’ll see in the first one the bottom two ports are “connect to eARC from TV” and “connect to AVR input 1”, you then have two additional inputs to plug whatever into. Just like on your current LG, there should be multiple saved picture settings you can flip between so you’re not stuck on a single picture mode for each HDMI port, and flipping between settings (ie: cinema, to game, to bright room, etc) won’t overwrite the settings you’ve saved in each mode.

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Build Complete!! Definitely a pain in the ass building in these SFF cases. Especially when they are this small. It was going smooth until I got to mounting the 4090 and I just couldn't get it in and felt like I was going to damage the PCIE connector. So I had to basically take apart half of what I did, remove the backplane and basically build the case around the GPU. I think overall it took me around 5-6hrs to post. Im not thrilled with my 12vhpwr cable on how its connected to the 4090 and may look to order a longer one. 

 

Specs:

Formd T1 v2.5

4090 FE

AMD 7800x3D 

Asus Rog Strix B650e-i 

Samsung 990 Pro 4TB M.2 SSD

32Gb Corsair Vengeance 6000mz CL30

Cooler Master Atmos 240 AiO

Corsair SF750 PSU

Phanteks T-30 and Noctua A12-15 Chromax fans for exhaust on radiator

Moddiy SFF custom cables

 

 

Spindrift for Scale! 

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With the G8 Odyssey Monitor setup! Desk is too small. Time for an upgrade. 

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7 hours ago, atom631 said:

Build Complete!! Definitely a pain in the ass building in these SFF cases. Especially when they are this small. It was going smooth until I got to mounting the 4090 and I just couldn't get it in and felt like I was going to damage the PCIE connector. So I had to basically take apart half of what I did, remove the backplane and basically build the case around the GPU. I think overall it took me around 5-6hrs to post. Im not thrilled with my 12vhpwr cable on how its connected to the 4090 and may look to order a longer one. 

 

Specs:

Formd T1 v2.5

4090 FE

AMD 7800x3D 

Asus Rog Strix B650e-i 

Samsung 990 Pro 4TB M.2 SSD

32Gb Corsair Vengeance 6000mz CL30

Cooler Master Atmos 240 AiO

Corsair SF750 PSU

Phanteks T-30 and Noctua A12-15 Chromax fans for exhaust on radiator

Moddiy SFF custom cables

 

 

Spindrift for Scale! 

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spacer.png

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With the G8 Odyssey Monitor setup! Desk is too small. Time for an upgrade. 

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How loud is that? 

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8 hours ago, SuperSpreader said:

 

How loud is that? 

 

so far is pretty damn quiet. when just surfing the web/watching YT etc, it’s completely silent. Gaming so far where it is behind the monitor, cant really hear it at all. I havent messed with fan curves or undervolting or anything like that either. not sure if i need to. 

 

in the cyberpunk benchmark with RT set to overdrive The GPU never got above 61 and the CPU never above 72

 

in the 3D Mark test, GPU highest was 65 and CPU hit 81. the score was around 28,500ish. 

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2 hours ago, atom631 said:

 

so far is pretty damn quiet. when just surfing the web/watching YT etc, it’s completely silent. Gaming so far where it is behind the monitor, cant really hear it at all. I havent messed with fan curves or undervolting or anything like that either. not sure if i need to. 

 

in the cyberpunk benchmark with RT set to overdrive The GPU never got above 61 and the CPU never above 72

 

in the 3D Mark test, GPU highest was 65 and CPU hit 81. the score was around 28,500ish. 

 

Nice. I was thinking of building one but I was concerned about noise/cooling 

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1 hour ago, SuperSpreader said:

 

Nice. I was thinking of building one but I was concerned about noise/cooling 

 

no issues so far. however, if you dont need something this small (this case is 9.9L) there are lot of options that would be easier to build (the case comes completely unassembled in a flatpack) and probably offer even better cooling. 

 

Check out the NR200P max, It comes with a 850 Gold SF PSU, 240 AiO and custom length cables all already run and installed in the case. Its a SFF community favorite. Its just a little too big for where I need to put it when I connect to my TV. 

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3 hours ago, Remarkableriots said:
WCCFTECH.COM

Intel's upcoming flagship Core i9-14900KS Limited Edition CPU has leaked out within OCCT and it's an insane beast in all regards.

 


@Mr.Vic20are you getting one + a mini nuclear reactor to power it?

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welp. my 4090 has coil whine. :|

 

its not terrible bc the gpu faces away from me and I noticed it when trying mess with fan curves (which also lead me to realize i had my aio pump header hooked up to the cpu fan, so it was running off a curve. lol). so I had all sound off while doing this and thats when I noticed it. 

 

I guess this is pretty normal from what im reading. and being that the gpu is litterally 2mm from the mesh panel, thats why I even hear it. 

 

I guess its luck of the draw if you get lucky and get a card without it so I guess ill deal with it. 

 

the. good news is moving the aio pump to the aio header so its running at 100% brought my cpu temps down 7-10 degrees. so my 3D mark score jumped almost 600 points. 

 

one thing that is annoying the F outta me is I cant get the msi afterburner overlay to work. it just wont come up. tried several games across a few launchers. I disabled nvidia overlay too. 

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49 minutes ago, atom631 said:

welp. my 4090 has coil whine. :|

 

its not terrible bc the gpu faces away from me and I noticed it when trying mess with fan curves (which also lead me to realize i had my aio pump header hooked up to the cpu fan, so it was running off a curve. lol). so I had all sound off while doing this and thats when I noticed it. 

 

I guess this is pretty normal from what im reading. and being that the gpu is litterally 2mm from the mesh panel, thats why I even hear it. 

 

I guess its luck of the draw if you get lucky and get a card without it so I guess ill deal with it. 

 

the. good news is moving the aio pump to the aio header so its running at 100% brought my cpu temps down 7-10 degrees. so my 3D mark score jumped almost 600 points. 

 

one thing that is annoying the F outta me is I cant get the msi afterburner overlay to work. it just wont come up. tried several games across a few launchers. I disabled nvidia overlay too. 

Better go liquid cooling just to be safe. :p

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