cusideabelincoln

The system's potential will be wasted on 60 hz. Sales happen a lot and I'm sure he could get a 1440p 240hz for a good price within 6 months. Of course if he plays esports shooters there are 360 and 500+ hz monitors available.

It's a very nice build, is the monitor decent or does he plan to buy a nice one? 240hz monitors are pretty affordable.

I can wait.

I'm not dead yet! I'm ready to play Jedi: Survivor, and you can wait for the Steam Winter sale. Thank my man

515

A remaster of Ocarina of Time, except you get to play and see the story unfold from Zelda/Sheik's perspective.

A 14700k does need a liquid cooler. It uses a lot of power. 14600k or 13600k can get by with a good air cooler, but liquid is preferred. Compared to the old 7700k, these newer CPUs putting off 2-3 times heat and wattage. Out of the box, these CPUs are designed to overclock themselves, and you can change these parameters. More power+performance = more heat, and vice versa. So technically you don't need liquid because you can configure the CPU to run at a lower power draw. You'll sacrifice maybe 5-10% gaming performance depending on how low you go. The biggest drop in performance comes in fully multithreaded applications that use the entire CPU at once. If you were playing a game those temps look fine. If you were doing nothing, then they are a bit high. Even the GPU is high. I'd also guess you have some dust buildup in the heatsinks and radiators. A good cleaning can help temps too.

And concerning his old PC: IF you don't hear gurgling noises or any other weird noises coming from the water pump, I bet the thermal paste has just dried out too much which is causing more heat to build up. And this is an easy fix to keep the system running for whatever reason (sell it off, backup). edit: But if new paste doesn't fix the issue, and everything sounds fine, then there's probably gunk build-up inside which means replacement time (not an easy fix to do yourself, if at all possible).

The P5 Plus is basically in the same class the 980 Pro and WD SN850. Sometimes it's better, sometimes not. And I've seen it be <$90 several times this year (even bought one). It's an awesome drive, with the same advertised endurance as the 980 pro.

It's a good upgrade, but you would need to do more demanding tasks or play more demanding games to really see the benefit. Now considering that, there are a few changes I'd make. -Downgrade the 14700k to the 13600k -The 4060 Ti isn't a terribly great card because of the 8GB of VRAM. Games are starting to benefit from more than that, so in the future this can start to suck really bad. Even though there is a 16GB version of the 4060 Ti, it's not a good value. Even though I said what you currently do is fine, maybe something in the future catches your eye. In which case you should get a 4070 or consider the Radeon 7800XT -DDR5 version of the motherboard along with DDR5 RAM. -I believe there are some other SSDs almost as good (or sometimes better) than the 980 Pro for less. Prices fluctuate a lot though, thanks to sales.

A brand new map would do wonders; even though TotK added so much it I had already explored the entire BotW portion before. With an upgraded Switch 2 they can increase the density and complexity even more, which could then mean a huge open world leading into huge dungeons.

Ban phones and let's welcome The Return of the Ti-84+. Surely no students would install Tetris [and other apps] on it; I mean I never did that

RIGGED!

Learning has to compete with video games, social media, and streaming services, all of which have optimized ways to grab your attention through behavioral (sometimes predatory) manipulation, on top of just simply expanding access to users. Through these services kids have been exposed to an increasing amount of misinformation, disinformation, fear-mongering, and vapid, empty "content". My nephew (11) will just spout complete untruths as actual "facts", and when you question him where he got that information he will say it was from a Youtuber. The TV "rotting" our brain was a scare tactic when I was a kid, but now the "TV" is unchained. It's understood that watching a show on TV is a work of fiction, because the people are actors and are just pretending. But that veil between fiction and reality gets thinner when kids watch social media, which is made up of other "real" people who are easier to connect with and believe.

Increasing the rank, from single->dual->quad, is harder in the same way that increasing frequency is harder. If the memory sticks were to be of equal capabilities, it's easier for the IMC to run a higher frequency with a single rank set than it is with dual rank than it is for quad rank. It's probably a combination, because those other timings are pretty bad too on the 3600 kit and maybe it has even worse other ones.

Interesting, I really hope my Ryzen doesn't do this as I've heard it can happen with any of the 5000 chips. Overall Ryzen does prefer latency, since the bandwidth cap is around DDR3800 due to the Infinity fabric limitations. But 3000c15 should theoretically be the same latency as 3600c18 (10ns), assuming the other timings are proportionally similar. If you're running four dual rank sticks, that means you're in a quad rank configuration which effectively increases your bandwidth.

Damn, I just tried the double frame gen. You won't believe the results!

Not sure about return policy. Sounds risky. Good chance of getting charged a restocking fee at best.

Also reading over this again... could still be motherboard training (training is when it autodetermines the timings) issue. Ones that can cause booting issues: tRFC: this is pretty picky. Some sticks can do crazy low timings, others have to be 3x or 4x the timing. This also changes with frequency. At 3600 Mhz a "safe" value should for most sticks is 630 or more. At 2400 Mhz this can be >420, at 3200 MHz it can be >560. tCL: A main timing, 16 or 18 should work across the board. Must be an even value when Gear Down Mode is enabled. tRCDRD: Another main timing, some memory sticks can't go low. 20 or more is super safe, although really good mem can do 14. tRC: Can vary wildly between different types of memory chips and frequency. Some can do 40, others need 60+. 80 is probably safe across the board. tRDRDSD: This should only affect Dual-Rank sticks. Really good mem can do 1 or 2, but a super safe number is like 8. tWRWRSD: This should only affect Dual-Rank sticks. Really good mem can do 1 or 2, but a super safe value is 8. tRDRDDD: This should only matter when you have 4 sticks in the slots. tWRWRDD: This should only matter when you have 4 sticks in the slots. tRDRDSCL: >5 is super safe, don't set this too low tWRWRSCL: >5 is super safe, don't set this too low. tRDWR tWRRD These two kind of work together. You usually can't set both of them to lower values. One needs to be kind of low, and the other higher.

Also if you get the G.skill back in and booted up, download a program called ZenTimings and we can see what your motherboard is setting the default values to for a baseline to compare against the Corsair sticks. You could also run a test on the IMC/Infinity fabric. To do so, you need a program called OCCT and the latest version of Prime95. You run OCCT's VRAM stability benchmark and then run Prime95's LargeFFT at the same time. OCCT will report WHEA errors fairly quickly if there's an issue.

IMC is only on the CPU. The motherboard is just there to provide a physical connection between the CPU and RAM and control voltages. With higher speed memory a better quality motherboard means better quality physical traces to the CPU which helps prevent signal loss and electromagnetic interference. I have no idea if the G.skill is single or dual rank, but I just assume single rank since you said it was older. But that also depends on the capacity, as it could easily be dual-rank. However maybe some of the other subtimings are more relaxed. I would try these settings first at the JEDEC standard 2400 MHz with default timings on the new Corsair set: VDIMM (RAM voltage): 1.35V 2T command rate, much easier on the memory controller. Gear Down Mode: Enabled (should auto to enabled anyway) SoC voltage: 1.05 to 1.15V VDDG-IOD: 0.95 to 1.05V (make sure this is always at least .04V less than SoC) See how those go, if a no go then try... ProcODT: Start at 40 Ohm, and work your way up to 80 Ohm if it fails ClkDrvStr: Start at 20 Ohm and work your way up to 120 Ohm. The three other DrvStr you can leave on auto.

Starting to sound like a degraded memory controller since the lower-stress G.skill works, but then the dual-rank and quad-rank setups are harder on the memory controller and don't work. Again SoC and VDDG-IOD voltages are specifically for the memory controller so those should be the only voltages you need to change to help the CPU out, if possible. Command Rate, Gear Down Mode, ProcODT and the various DrvStr values can also have an effect on stability and could be worth changing to attempt to get the system running.

I've been doing some memory overclocking lately and it can be very finnicky. Changing a value by 1 out of the 50 or so different timings and voltages can cause the RAM to go from perfectly stable to not bootable. Now as to why your system is not setting the proper default values, which should work, is a head scratcher. Matching sticks of RAM is definitely the best, because there are about 5-6 different memory chips that are prevalent and they all require different secondary timings to be stable. Even Corsair will use chips from different vendors under the same "brand" name. It seems unlikely that your system is setting a proper value for the G.skill but not for any of the Corsairs... but I guess it could be possible. Dual rank sticks do require different subtimings than single rank sticks, and if you run all 4 sticks that also activates two more subtimings that need to be configured properly. Or if your testing is just a result of random instability: If it's a failing memory controller, you could try setting your Corsair sticks to default timings and speed. Then set your SoC voltage to 1.1V and your VDDG-IOD to 1.2V and see what happens, as these should be the highest safe values for 24/7 usage while the default values should be 1V and 0.9V. I think this is a place to start, and if these voltages don't work then somehow your board is setting incorrect timings.... or you CPU is going bad. @Spork3245 Oh and did you clear CMOS before installing the brand new Corsair sticks?

Nice, who's next?

Yeah on Newegg's 7800x3d page just scroll down to the combo up section. Build & Save with AMD Bundle Combos | Newegg 7800x3D + Asus Tuf Gaming X670E-Plus Wifi + G.Skill Flare X5 will save you $60. Motherboard is better, RAM is slightly worse. You could use the savings to pick up a 4TB drive, some decent ones are around $200 right now.