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About Me

  1. I'll wait on the GPU when I can get one at close to msrp, could have gotten a 6700xt tonight but I'm not buying that for $900 so instead I got this.
  2. So I have a few older components that I was planning on getting rid of and I wanted to check to see if they would be of any use to folks here, first, since you all have helped me several times over the years with new builds/pc related questions. Parts in question: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 04G-P4-1972-KR 4GB MSA P67A-G45 motherboard with an i2500k processor Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU fan I also have 4 sticks of RAM but I can't recall the exact specs right now If this is of interest, please let me know and I would be happy to mail them to you, provided you are willing to assist with the shipping costs. Couple things: I would prefer to send it all as one package as opposed to breaking it up, if possible. While the parts were working great when I stopped using them previously, I cannot guarantee they still remain that way (though they were stored carefully). I am hopeful someone can use these personally or as a gift to someone else. I realize they are old and not all that valuable but would prefer they not be flipped.
  3. So what the deal here? I always have issues connecting to my pc from both my phone (moonlight) and nvidia shield unless I turn the tv on and keep it on. Is there some obvious setting Im missing for this to not be the case or do I really need a headless ghost like I’ve seen suggested? The problem with a headless ghost is the 3080 has one 2.1 hdmi port and that’s for my tv so Id want it to be display port, but then those only show 4k at 17hz. So what is the solution exactly for streaming locally at home and not having to turn a monitor/tv on? Seems like it should be a simple thing but I can’t seem to find the exact solution. I want to be able to just instantly connect in my bedroom without this whole extra unnecessary element. Edit: I’m using gamesteam via Moonlight or Nvidia directly on the shield
  4. So I’ve had my current keyboard for over a decade, but I wanna make the switch to mechanical. I’m pretty much in the dark about them. i don’t want to spend crazy, preferably under $100.
  5. I'm just curious what has worked for people over the past few months: How did you actually acquire your GPU? Did you get lucky with getting into a manufacturer's queue? Win a Newegg shuffle? Camp out outside a Best Buy? Pay scalper prices? Offer a blood sacrifice to Satan? What was your strategy?
  6. So I decided to splurge and get the new Dell XPS 15 (9510) with the OLED screen. The screen and laptop are fantastic. My only problem is that the OLED seems to make me motion sick ☹️ Anyone else have this issue with OLED screens? Any ideas how to prevent this? Literally contemplating returning the laptop and getting their other 4k screen.
  7. Selling my 3080 FTW3 Ultra, it's a non-LHR if you're into that sort of thing. Want to ask here before it goes to eBay - if you're interested just let me know by tomorrow or Wednesday
  8. Was playing RE Village earlier and computer crashed. Figured it might have overheated. Cleaned things out and it booted right back up. Started RE Village again and it was in a small window. Went into display to make it full screen and it's blurry and text almost impossible to read. When I brought up AMD overlay it said current resolution was too low for full screen experience. I tried old drivers, newest drivers, uninstalling and reinstalling the game. Nothing. Am I missing a setting? Or the obvious here?
  9. Modem died early Friday morning. It was weird because it wasn't completely dead, I could still connect to the web interface though it was sometimes unresponsive. Got the new modem today and eventually figured out how to get the optical socket out of the old modem to be able to connect the optical cable to the new one (just pull down the fragile looking handle and pull it out). Internet started working fairly quickly but phone and TV go through the modem as well. Fixing the phone was easy, I just plugged it into the wrong port so I just swapped it and it worked. TV was a real pain. One TV in a bedroom and one in the living room. The modem is in the bedroom because that's where the optical cable comes in. There is a range extender in the living room and that's a big part of what made it such a pain. The extender has 2 modes. One has a green LED and is for when you run an ethernet cable from the extender to the modem and then the TV receivers connect to the extender. That's the default mode and if you reset it while it's connected to the modem it will enter that mode. That's not the mode it needed to be in. The modem has a WPS button but the WPS has 2 modes as well. The first mode is the regular WPS mode for connecting WPS compatible wireless devices and has a 2 minute timer. The other modem requires you to hold the button again within 5 seconds that's for connecting TV receivers and starts a 5 minute timer. Everything is slow to reset so each time I tried something that didn't work it took a long time. The other mode for the extender has a blue LED. The ISP's online instructions don't say anything about this mode and last time it was a technician who set it up but somebody had a similar issue on Reddit and one of the replies had information about the other mode. The bedroom TV receiver connects to the modem wirelessly, so while it's not connected to the extender, it just needs to be reset so that it gets to the pairing screen. Then use the long WPS mode on the modem and connect the receiver. The other TV is connected to the extender by ethernet and the extender connects wirelessly to the modem. So, use the reset button on the extender so that the LED turns blue, use the WPS button on the extender followed by the long WPS mode on the modem (in blue LED mode, the modem treats the extender as a TV receiver) which will light up the WiFi LED on the extender. Then reboot the receiver so that it uses the wired connection (when I did it, the receiver was already powered when I finally got the extender properly configure so it tried the wireless connection which failed so I had to restart the receiver again). Wasted a big chunk of the day but everything works now and I should be able to get everything set up quickly if I ever need to do it again.
  10. Had some thunderstorms the other day and now I can't sign into my Microsoft account. Now I can't access any of my personal files but my apps still work. I've tried the basic fixes it suggests they don't work, I've done some command line repairs, I've tried to restore to backup (doesn't restore) and I've even tried resetting my device while keeping my personal files (said it failed and no changes were made). Any suggestions for other things I can try?
  11. You only live once. I got a local seller giving it up for $850 flat, no shipping, no tax. Thats a damn good price. If not PLEASE find better or tell me why I shouldn't. upgrading a 1060
  12. Is there anything I can do to protect myself from DDOS attacks? I tried to host a hoi4 game and was getting constantly DDOS to the point I had to get replaced.
  13. Anyone have anything to sell at an un-inflated price? Would REALLY like something with at least 2GB of RAM my 1.5 isn't cutting it.
  14. Heard a buzzing noise when I turned on my computer, so turned it off and on several times. Pretty sure it's not the HDD, because my computer has an SSD. Computer's barely a month old. There's no way something's wrong with it already. Heard the buzzing noise again today and the other day. I don't know if I'm just not used to the differences between my new computer and my old computer that I had for 7-8 years. I'm not used to there being less of a delay between when you press the power button and when the computer turns on, for example. Heard the buzzing again today and the other day. Not sure it's the fan either, because my fan is pretty quiet to the point where I barely hear it.
  15. MB is an ROG Maximux X hero NZXT 710 case Kraken x62 aio with push pull fans 750w psu I'm going to put my gtx 1080 and a new NVME drive if I buy it. My cousin was trying to sell me just the CPU MB and some cheap chinse ram for $250 as an upgrade for my PC but id rather just use my current PC as HTPC I don't plan on keeping the cheap chinese ram I'll later get 32 GB of some quality ram @Mr.Vic20 you're my only hope
  16. USB-C upgrade will more than double its power capacity to 240W | Engadget WWW.ENGADGET.COM An update to USB-C standard could deliver 240W of power, more than double the connector's current capacity..
  17. Team builds first hacker-resistant cloud software system TECHXPLORE.COM Whenever you buy something on Amazon, your customer data is automatically updated and stored on thousands of virtual machines in the cloud. For businesses like Amazon, ensuring the safety and security ...
  18. Posting this topic here, because I heard I'd get better responses. I recently bought a new computer. https://www.amazon.com/Acer-TC-895-UA92-i5-10400-Processor-802-11ax/dp/B088X2YR3X I found out that this computer has a proprietary PSU, which can't be replaced easily. Should I be worried about the power supply?
  19. My 8 year old 770 finally bit the dust and I'm looking online for a GTX1060, GTX 1650, or a RX 570 and the prices from reputable sources are astounding. At these prices I might as well just get a 3060. It would be a severe bottle neck but I will eventually be upgrading my i5 3570K, motherboard, and memory later. Any input on not spending $300-$400 on a card that should cost $200. Also need to get a recommendation on a newer wifi card, just realized that the one I've been using is going on 10+ years.
  20. That's it, boys. It was a good run. 5 or 6 years. I should have an old GTX 770 lying around somewhere, I might give that a go. Lord knows I can't buy a fucking new one these days.
  21. I ordered some parts on the weekend and most of them came in today. I just checked the current prices of what I got and 3 items are lower now. CPU is $40 (CAN) cheaper, SSD is $20 cheaper and motherboard is $15 cheaper. So $75 in total or about $86.25 with tax (possibly more if shipping was affected). The delivery date was actually supposed to be tomorrow, maybe they hurried it out to prevent me from canceling and reordering On the bright side, the 5800X had briefly went up $40 before going back down so at least the current price isn't $80 less than what I paid. On the other hand, had the price not just dropped $40 I might have waited and then placed the order now instead. I didn't want to risk my current PC dying (i5 2500k) with chip shortages and the potential for further price hikes and instead prices went down
  22. So my ex-wife hits me up asking about laptops. (The horror) I might ignore her but what kind of laptops would work for that? Do I find something with the best processor possible or something with a good processor and a good GPU?
  23. OK, so, with a few games, when I alt tab, the screen flicks to black for a second or two, or when I would use my media keys to turn down the screen flicks to black as well. Essentially, leaving the program in anyway or not having that program being "on top" will cause my screen to flick black for second. It almost feels like the the games are being treated like that are in "full screen" when they are in "borderless window". I have this issue with Monster Hunter World and Cyberpunk. Well, I didn't have this issue with MHW until today. I turned on DirectX 12 combability and suddenly this issue appeared. So I went out to solve it and I found this video. Well, this didn't work. I already had g sync(FreeSync) off as it was causing issues. Like in Paint 3D the entire thing flickers a whole bunch and it becomes incredibly slow to the point where it is nearly unusable. However, if I move it over to my 1080p monitor it becomes stable. Because of that video I also found of that if I display my game in 1080p on my 1440p monitor the flick doesn't happen when I alt tab and shit. However, I saw a comment that said they for them, they had to turn on g-sync to make the flick to black go away. And so what ended up doing was turning on g-sync just for MHW have having it off globally. And now I can alt tab with DX 12 enabled without the flicker shit. But I just don't understand what the fuck the issue is. Why do I need g-sync(FreeSync) on to solve this issue? Why does enabling DX 12 cause the issue in the first place? Why does it not happen in 1080p? AND WTF??!?!?!?!?!?!??!!?!?!??! I JUST disabled g sync for MHW and I was going to record the the flicker with my phone because it doesn't capture on Shadowplay. BUT IT DIDN"T FUCKING HAPPEN??!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!!? Even with g sync off and DX 12 on there is no flicker. WTF? And it is at this point I realize that I think it is a monitor issue. Because the entire screen goes black as in the image is lost. I don't see the task bar when that happens, the ENTIRE screen goes black. Now I need to restart my PC to see if it will appear on restart or if I somehow fixed the issue for good. WTF
  24. What's up all! I've been streaming pretty regularly for a few weeks now and its been fun, but I've been seeing the need to upgrade. My PC has a Ryzen 2600 16GB RAM and a RX580. Pretty modest and probably isnt the greatest streaming machine especially with VR, which is all I stream. Now here's the kicker, I stream these games to my headset via Virtual Desktop so it needs to encode that signal and the stream at the same time over the same network cable. While streaming I dont get many hiccups at all, besides some compression issues on my end and on the stream. Once this GPU pandemic ends I plan to upgrade, but would I see any benefit going to a 2.5G switch? I feel like im bottle necked through a 1 gig pipe streaming both to the world and my VR headset at the same time. Thanks for any advice!
  25. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not this was a good investment, especially considering the one game I play doesn't feed into it properly (more on that later). For a couple of games, this monitor is awesome. I never realized how much I would appreciate the total peripheral vision that comes with a monitor like this. Red Dead Redemption 2 just looks awesome, and sometimes I'm left wondering how I ever got along without such a large monitor. Pluses: It's huge. Handles most games pretty well. Negatives: Expensive. Cost me nearly $1000 Really only has 1080p. I'm okay with that, but I understand that a lot of the critics have derided that as a significant factor not to buy, and I totally get that. Doesn't work with every game. As to that last point, this is why I'm really torn on this investment. I play Star Wars The Old Republic religiously, and for some reason even though its graphics choices have a 3840x1080 option, it stretches everything sideways so that every character looks extremely fat and each item on screen is a lot wider than it really appears. I can't fix this no matter what I do. I even tried putting the game in window mode and changing the resolution. The game has some inherent resolution parameters that just won't allow you to make a change that makes a difference. On numerous forums, the other widescreen users all complained about the same thing, and my favorite was one that linked to SWTOR customer support saying "update your drivers" as if every person on the planet hasn't tried doing that. Anyway, those are my thoughts. Your comments would be greatly appreciated.
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