PC Tech High End Budget Build opinions?

[HardAct]

  I've been asking for help with a new Gaming / Movie TV last couple days settling on a Samsung 65" Q70  after getting a ton of help with that so . . . .   

 

      I thought I ask what you all think of this Mid tear PC for gaming too? I do build my own PCs but don't often. I like to choose good name components and enjoying them as long as possible. My last PC was a i5-2500k / 32 gigs DDr 3 / GTX 980Ti and it was a great machine.

 

PartsPicker.com

 

      Before shit hit the fan the last 6months, I was going to build a Brand new I7 9900k / 2080Ti PC but that just isn't going to happen. So as a compromise I have decided to go with a GTX 2080 and a i7 8700k saving about 700 bucks and only going with 16 gig 3200 DDr 4 also. I just hope I don't regret waiting, but the prices of those amazing 2080Ti cards aren't dropping fast at all, hell the 1080Ti's are still going for quite a bit. From what I have read and watch on you tube the 2080 is better than a 1080Ti so this is what I have come up with. I really need you thought's as I will be gaming in 4k most the time, maxing out everything under the sun won't be necessary though, I'll have to learn to save a buck and not always have the very very best there is!

 

      After all that rambling, I do tend to do that rather than face life most days so sorry for that. If it bothers anyone, I'll try and cut back a bit on the Depression.

 

PartsPicker.com

 

I know there is money to be saved but I do want quality name brand parts, I have always believed that you do get what you pay for  . . . . .

[Spork3245]

What’s your budget here? Goal resolution and frame rate? I’ll look at current deals/sales for you and try to piece something together.

[HardAct]

3 hours ago, Spork3245 said:

What’s your budget here? Goal resolution and frame rate? I’ll look at current deals/sales for you and try to piece something together.

   New Gaming PC

 

      Not really budget per say as I'm not going to be able to do a 2080Ti as much as that is killing me. I have to pump the breaks a bit. I put together a PC with 2 links and was asking if when hooked up to a say Samsung Q70 it would still be a bad ass PC? I always go with Name brand parts, and will favor quality over price in most cases but there are limits of course. I'm hoping that for the most part I will be able to game at 4k and am fine with lowering some settings that kill frame rate to make them a smooth experience. I might build the exact same PC but put in a cheaper Card till I can buy the 2080Ti but that is up in the air, the bones of this system at least to me seems rock solid and very to upgrade it through the next 5-6 years if I go with a 2080 maybe in 12 months I can afford the 2080Ti. . . 

[Spork3245]

Okay, first, remove Win10 - you can get keys on eBay for like $10

 

Second, can that case fit a 360mm Radiator (possibly front mounted)? I have a Cooler Master ML360 I bought but can't use as I didn't realize I had to remove my optical drive to fit it in my new case. I opened the box but never installed it - I'd sell it to for $100 + shipping. I paid like $150-160 for it. It's the RGB model. If not, I'd switch to a Corsair H100i or H115i as the NZXT has AWFUL software.

 

Third, switch to an AMD Ryzen CPU: https://www.walmart.com/ip/AMD-RYZEN-7-2700X-8-Core-3-7-GHz-4-3-GHz-Max-Boost-Socket-AM4-105W-Desktop-Processor-YD270XBGAFBOX-Free-Division-2-Gold-Edition-World-War-Z-purchase/555767145 as if you have fast RAM it should be very close to the i7 9900k in gaming, especially at 4k. Mobo: https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-X470-AORUS-ULTRA-GAMING/dp/B07BZ239Z2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549377638&sr=8-1&keywords=Gigabyte+X470+Aorus+Gaming+5+Wi-Fi

 

Fourth, get cheaper SSDs. I'd look at an M.2 for your boot SSD, Samsung is likely best for that, but you could also look at Crucial's MX series. For your gaming SSD, go with an ADATA or Crucial and save a boat load, a 1tb SSD should be under $100.

 

Fifth, get cheaper high MHZ low latency RAM: https://m.newegg.com/product/N82E16820331285?m_ver=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app (if you like pretty lights, otherwise: https://m.newegg.com/product/N82E16820233859?ignorebbr=1&m_ver=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app )

 

Those changes should be enough to get you to an RTX 2080 Ti:  https://store.zotac.com/zotac-gaming-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-amp-extreme-core-zt-t20810c-10p (use code SPRING120 for $120 off) or https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-GeForce-RTX-2080-Ti-DirectX-12-11G-P4-2281-KR-11GB-352-Bit-GDDR6-PCI-Expres/183729114414?epid=21031091016&hash=item2ac71bcd2e&enc=AQADAAADAFjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVROW1o0ZvehTCMDn81MscD2DSgwF0nc3AVaOmNWwijTmo1YYljlUHrzoEjwVQsEuviqD6Hbmu%2BOSXkvAY36g42rm3MDt4Czfgbx3edPDPVt1yk%2FIr19%2BwIzT7sGybFxlsdi4tHy6JdfpYE7gNIIkWn%2BqAei5I%2Bp8aCXIuiJS%2Bn1cFrQZ%2FitFjETpZdMzS3H9CPvZNSdmCyTtcHMzP%2BlD%2FvuDb1ZlBfp2jwld%2Fy8Q7X2%2FkhA0%2B7R%2BIuBWmYox%2BKAk9JTvYqsw4CIC87mB%2Bo9pTN2Iez8KV4s30bjDA4Omm6hTr37QHiYU%2BPqDBqC4u2qgv%2FtNlg7SFQkr8K%2FCcTbEuEj88NHDgzMuY4G4CunXyVnBs4d8afkYMSbC6SVQRniXwOX2Rj9aaf9jqxkXjpY4z0UmpxckhXh%2F4sA8l3CJuAho6yly5umpSWFY%2BfEZsdt8F%2BeK3vGmw7xXrXqELNAtJC6UdgA%2BtPjSnA2ucIkl%2BnY1CSdNjSVv54s%2BOCiUVryi0TF1%2FVsGBUTfuVywasEutADLG4Gl4EGtY5LYZ%2B7TafE%2FvsfUDhNDsAXh6It4xE7uIbYmbiMlgSkXT069hQeXhCH4FWzdFvOEb6t2WrNyzbXPvjPYOiACsoDCzy5sYg86dz%2B9Wi1u6C31rOVx0Z2gn%2FtH741R3%2FjQfQGLCnsOshkn336oW2eQlaRkEnwSAf%2F6DQOTpQhDnkkDuBzVzgLsKHnyvumTbicY2LIe5UzQ%2BLAzQpNfhIzRdqzlE%2F7sbfA6mTWky4M1Jq74qp4n7TP33F9lNGJbInFIIDpj0Av3gUrpTDPjpQDfiZ%2BqGVjPWkf6QlSB6F%2F5wdEjBnNLkOgquju1m2kAAny7RVJ5nN9zgYs0W3L0zzE%2Byoth12XSA2n0%2BxaYEAf86CC6fLLmW0zqP2B2PJoLPvInopHBcCly8qghA6f9QnT8c5Z3d9uo9x%2BVehFi0%2Fe0uzfZtUasDIiweFQ%3D%3D&checksum=1837291144148a481033615e4a009dd8e93710093624

 

@HardAct

[HardAct]

38 minutes ago, Spork3245 said:

Okay, first, remove Win10 - you can get keys on eBay for like $10

 

Second, can that case fit a 360mm Radiator (possibly front mounted)? I have a Cooler Master ML360 I bought but can't use as I didn't realize I had to remove my optical drive to fit it in my new case. I opened the box but never installed it - I'd sell it to for $100 + shipping. I paid like $150-160 for it. It's the RGB model. If not, I'd switch to a Corsair H100i or H115i as the NZXT has AWFUL software.

 

Third, switch to an AMD Ryzen CPU: https://www.walmart.com/ip/AMD-RYZEN-7-2700X-8-Core-3-7-GHz-4-3-GHz-Max-Boost-Socket-AM4-105W-Desktop-Processor-YD270XBGAFBOX-Free-Division-2-Gold-Edition-World-War-Z-purchase/555767145 as if you have fast RAM it should be very close to the i7 9900k in gaming, especially at 4k. Mobo: https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-X470-AORUS-ULTRA-GAMING/dp/B07BZ239Z2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549377638&sr=8-1&keywords=Gigabyte+X470+Aorus+Gaming+5+Wi-Fi

 

Fourth, get cheaper SSDs. I'd look at an M.2 for your boot SSD, Samsung is likely best for that, but you could also look at Crucial's MX series. For your gaming SSD, go with an ADATA or Crucial and save a boat load, a 1tb SSD should be under $100.

 

Fifth, get cheaper high MHZ low latency RAM: https://m.newegg.com/product/N82E16820331285?m_ver=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app (if you like pretty lights, otherwise: https://m.newegg.com/product/N82E16820233859?ignorebbr=1&m_ver=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app )

 

Those changes should be enough to get you to an RTX 2080 Ti:  https://store.zotac.com/zotac-gaming-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-amp-extreme-core-zt-t20810c-10p (use code SPRING120 for $120 off) or https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-GeForce-RTX-2080-Ti-DirectX-12-11G-P4-2281-KR-11GB-352-Bit-GDDR6-PCI-Expres/183729114414?epid=21031091016&hash=item2ac71bcd2e&enc=AQADAAADAFjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVROW1o0ZvehTCMDn81MscD2DSgwF0nc3AVaOmNWwijTmo1YYljlUHrzoEjwVQsEuviqD6Hbmu%2BOSXkvAY36g42rm3MDt4Czfgbx3edPDPVt1yk%2FIr19%2BwIzT7sGybFxlsdi4tHy6JdfpYE7gNIIkWn%2BqAei5I%2Bp8aCXIuiJS%2Bn1cFrQZ%2FitFjETpZdMzS3H9CPvZNSdmCyTtcHMzP%2BlD%2FvuDb1ZlBfp2jwld%2Fy8Q7X2%2FkhA0%2B7R%2BIuBWmYox%2BKAk9JTvYqsw4CIC87mB%2Bo9pTN2Iez8KV4s30bjDA4Omm6hTr37QHiYU%2BPqDBqC4u2qgv%2FtNlg7SFQkr8K%2FCcTbEuEj88NHDgzMuY4G4CunXyVnBs4d8afkYMSbC6SVQRniXwOX2Rj9aaf9jqxkXjpY4z0UmpxckhXh%2F4sA8l3CJuAho6yly5umpSWFY%2BfEZsdt8F%2BeK3vGmw7xXrXqELNAtJC6UdgA%2BtPjSnA2ucIkl%2BnY1CSdNjSVv54s%2BOCiUVryi0TF1%2FVsGBUTfuVywasEutADLG4Gl4EGtY5LYZ%2B7TafE%2FvsfUDhNDsAXh6It4xE7uIbYmbiMlgSkXT069hQeXhCH4FWzdFvOEb6t2WrNyzbXPvjPYOiACsoDCzy5sYg86dz%2B9Wi1u6C31rOVx0Z2gn%2FtH741R3%2FjQfQGLCnsOshkn336oW2eQlaRkEnwSAf%2F6DQOTpQhDnkkDuBzVzgLsKHnyvumTbicY2LIe5UzQ%2BLAzQpNfhIzRdqzlE%2F7sbfA6mTWky4M1Jq74qp4n7TP33F9lNGJbInFIIDpj0Av3gUrpTDPjpQDfiZ%2BqGVjPWkf6QlSB6F%2F5wdEjBnNLkOgquju1m2kAAny7RVJ5nN9zgYs0W3L0zzE%2Byoth12XSA2n0%2BxaYEAf86CC6fLLmW0zqP2B2PJoLPvInopHBcCly8qghA6f9QnT8c5Z3d9uo9x%2BVehFi0%2Fe0uzfZtUasDIiweFQ%3D%3D&checksum=1837291144148a481033615e4a009dd8e93710093624

 

@HardAct

the ram first off saves me 10 bucks and it's not name brand like the Corsair I had in the build. I do not care about the lights at all. If you looked at my build I had a theme kinda going as it's just whit and black. The Zodiac card it tempting though, thanks for that link, very appreciated!. Thanks for the time that took, I admit I'm not great at searching everywhere for a better deal. I'm not new to PC building but I do need it to be quality parts and it to have a sort of theme, though not into RGB lighting as I once was. I LOVE THE LOOK of the card I have in the build I made, and it saves me the 600 the Ti version has. I have never bought a pc used part from another person, again do not care about light on my cooler, it is what it is. I'll need brand new part name brand with respected warrenties!

[Spork3245]

21 minutes ago, HardAct said:

the ram first off saves me 10 bucks and it's not name brand like the Corsair I had in the build. I do not care about the lights at all. If you looked at my build I had a theme kinda going as it's just whit and black.

 

T-Force isn’t no name, I also linked to the same Corsair RAM you already selected for $15 less... Also, the T-Force is using the same exact dye as the Corsair afaik. Please reread the RAM part as you may have missed the second link.

 

Quote

 I have never bought a pc used part from another person, again do not care about light on my cooler. I do respect that you never installed it, it is what it is. I'll need brand new part name brand with respected warrenties!

 

It’s not used and has the full warranty, it’s 8 or 9 weeks old and was a week past the return date when I tried to install it. I was going to throw it on r/hardwareswap on Reddit for $130. It’s literally the best AIO cooler on the market, go check reviews. I’m not here peddling my wares, I’m trying to help you out and to get you to an RTX 2080 Ti. Regardless, don’t get the NZXT Kraken, the Corsairs are roughly as good, have better software and are cheaper (I think you can find the H100i for around $100)

[Spork3245]

To clarify, for 4k, you really don’t want anything less than a 2080 Ti, which is why I finagled your parts so you could afford one. (With no performance loss)

[cusideabelincoln]

What is your time frame for actually buying this machine?

 

In about two weeks AMD should be giving us details on their next gen processors.  They could be ready to buy in June or July, or my guess at the latest by September.  The rumored prices are INSANELY cheap, which is why you might want to hold off a few more days, LOL.  I've seen the rumors suggest we will be getting i9 9900k performance for half the price.  And current Ryzen processors are almost going on liquidation prices, so retailers are preparing themselves which is why I think the new processors will be here sooner than later.

 

And my other suggestion will raise your cost a bit, but when you get an SSD make sure it says NVME.  They are much faster than SATA drives.  Cost is more but not that much more, and they are getting cheaper every day now.  They will make for an excellent boot/Operating System drive.

 

Lastly, I'd reserve the urge to buy an expensive liquid cooler and high end motherboard for overclocking.  If you're not going to overclock, there are quality cheaper parts you can get.  The more expensive options you initially picked out are really to support people who push their system to the max, and to be honest that really isn't necessary with the latest high end processors.  Intel and AMD do a pretty damn good job of squeezing all the performance they can out of stock processors with their turbo boost, all the while keeping power consumption and heat in check.  And since you're looking at 4k gaming, overclocked CPU performance doesn't even affect framerates.

[Spork3245]

19 minutes ago, cusideabelincoln said:

What is your time frame for actually buying this machine?

 

In about two weeks AMD should be giving us details on their next gen processors.  They could be ready to buy in June or July, or my guess at the latest by September.  The rumored prices are INSANELY cheap, which is why you might want to hold off a few more days, LOL.  I've seen the rumors suggest we will be getting i9 9900k performance for half the price.  And current Ryzen processors are almost going on liquidation prices, so retailers are preparing themselves which is why I think the new processors will be here sooner than later.

 

Ah, I didn't realize the new AMD CPUs were that close. It's definitely worth waiting a little then, at the least, current prices on both Ryzen and i7 9xxx series will likely drop.

 

Quote

And my other suggestion will raise your cost a bit, but when you get an SSD make sure it says NVME.  They are much faster than SATA drives.  Cost is more but not that much more, and they are getting cheaper every day now.  They will make for an excellent boot/Operating System drive.

 

The difference for gaming isn't significant with M.2 vs SATA. However, if the mobo has multiple M.2 slots, I do agree. I tend to assume every mobo only has 1 M.2 slot even though I know there's a handful with multiple  

 

Quote

Lastly, I'd reserve the urge to buy an expensive liquid cooler and high end motherboard for overclocking.  If you're not going to overclock, there are quality cheaper parts you can get.  The more expensive options you initially picked out are really to support people who push their system to the max, and to be honest that really isn't necessary with the latest high end processors.  Intel and AMD do a pretty damn good job of squeezing all the performance they can out of stock processors with their turbo boost, all the while keeping power consumption and heat in check. 

 

Is he not OCing? If he's not, then I absolutely agree - just use the stock cooler or get a decent air cooler with a huge heatsink.

 

Quote

And since you're looking at 4k gaming, overclocked CPU performance doesn't even affect framerates.

 

95% of the time, yep! Which is why I'm urging him to go deal shopping and switch to AMD so he can get an RTX 2080 Ti over an RTX 2080  

[cusideabelincoln]

I think just about every new board midrange to high end has two m.2 slots now.  Usually one m.2 will be faster than the other, though, having access to more PCI-e lanes, and then usually the second m.2 slot will disable a PCI-e slot if populated.  Or sometimes the second m.2 slot is SATA only and doesn't support PCI-e or NVME.  Always gotta read that fine print.

[Spork3245]

8 minutes ago, cusideabelincoln said:

I think just about every new board midrange to high end has two m.2 slots now.  Usually one m.2 will be faster than the other, though, having access to more PCI-e lanes, and then usually the second m.2 slot will disable a PCI-e slot if populated.  Or sometimes the second m.2 slot is SATA only and doesn't support PCI-e or NVME.  Always gotta read that fine print.

 

I mean, technically, you could always get one of those $10 PCI-E cards that hold/adapt M.2 drives  

Either way, definitely M.2 for the OS drive.

[cusideabelincoln]

7 minutes ago, Spork3245 said:

 

95% of the time, yep! Which is why I'm urging him to go deal shopping and switch to AMD so he can get an RTX 2080 Ti over an RTX 2080  

 

The Ti would certainly help with 4k, but I also agree with him in that it is just too overpriced.  I want to recommend he just get a cheaper card and live with downgraded visuals for a short while.  The 2080 Ti is stuck on the 12nm process, which is basically the same as the 14 nm process that the 1080 was on.  When Nvidia releases 7nm cards I bet they'll be more attractive.  Nice performance jump, second gen RTX enhancements, maybe competitive prices (LOLOLO(L).  But what will really happen is anyone guess.

[Spork3245]

1 minute ago, cusideabelincoln said:

 

The Ti would certainly help with 4k, but I also agree with him in that it is just too overpriced.  I want to recommend he just get a cheaper card and live with downgraded visuals for a short while.  The 2080 Ti is stuck on the 12nm process, which is basically the same as the 14 nm process that the 1080 was on.  When Nvidia releases 7nm cards I bet they'll be more attractive.  Nice performance jump, second gen RTX enhancements, maybe competitive prices (LOLOLO(L).  But what will really happen is anyone guess.

 

He wanted the Ti but is forced to downgrade to personal matters, not because he thinks it's "overpriced". His budget seems to be in the $2k range where a Ti is easily doable and very much worth it. This is coming from a Ti owner who games at 4k. If the idea is for him to wait for the next gen of cards then dropping ~$700 on an RTX 2080 is an equally awful idea.

[cusideabelincoln]

I was thinking the 2070 or 1080, lol.

 

But I just searched and seems like Nvidia might not release new cards until 2020, which is probably too long to hold off even if it's before March of next year.  2080 Ti is the best option, in that it doesn't seem AMD is competitive so Nvidia has no reason to price aggressively so the current cards should retain a lot of their (re-sale) value should he want to upgrade again.

[cusideabelincoln]

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor  ($279.89 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($149.89 @ OutletPC) 
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($84.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($124.89 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($124.89 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Black Video Card  ($999.99 @ Newegg) 
Case: NZXT - H500 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($69.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair - HX Platinum 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($99.99 @ Newegg) 
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter  ($35.75 @ Amazon) 
Total: $1970.27
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-14 00:07 EDT-0400

[Spork3245]

38 minutes ago, cusideabelincoln said:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor  ($279.89 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($149.89 @ OutletPC) 
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($84.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($124.89 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($124.89 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Black Video Card  ($999.99 @ Newegg) 
Case: NZXT - H500 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($69.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair - HX Platinum 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($99.99 @ Newegg) 
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter  ($35.75 @ Amazon) 
Total: $1970.27
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-14 00:07 EDT-0400

 

Cheaper (and better (according to reviews and users)) mobo: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ USB 3.1 Gen 2 Front Type C/ ATX/ DDR4/ Motherboard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BZ239Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ShK2CbAZ3BEX9 it’s supposedly *the* mobo for Ryzen gaming builds

 

With the SSDs, personally, I’d grab one for an OS drive and something cheaper like an ADATA SU800 for gaming since there won’t be a discernible difference there (the main draw is the superior simultaneous read/write capabilities, with games it’s  mostly just reading  )... BUT:

https://www.rakuten.com/shop/platinum-micro/product/CC2YY47AAABC/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Use code: SAVE15 and they drop to $120 each saves an extra $10  

 

EDIT: could also switch one m.2 to a 2tb Intel 660p as I’ve seen them down in the $180-185 range. For the $60 it’s worth it for an extra terabyte IMO. *The 660p is great for a gaming/data drive, not for OS.

EDITEDIT: https://flash.newegg.com/Product/20-167-461?utm_campaign=SaleBanner_B3A_20-167-461&cm_mmc=EMC-NFEmail051019-_-SaleBanner_B3A_20-167-461-_-NA-_-20-167-461&tp=i-H43-Q7H-OE-EPUzO-2G-1UFV-1c-EPMjO-1JPyDR&om_rid=212946030&om_mid=1502&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app  

[cusideabelincoln]

I was going to have him RAID the two 1TB SSDs, but yeah if he doesn't do that or want to do that grab a 2TB SSD as a storage drive, and drop the main OS drive down to 500GB.

[Spork3245]

8 hours ago, cusideabelincoln said:

I was going to have him RAID the two 1TB SSDs

 

Is that really even worth doing for a gaming PC? More storage space is the better route, IMO.  

Alternatively, if a RAID m.2 set-up is really worth it for the OS drive (I'm honestly not so sure unless you are doing heavy read/write stuff constantly?) he could grab two 256gb m.2 NVME drives and use a SATA SSD for games like an ADATA SU800 (same plating as a Crucial MX500 and matches it in read speeds and reliability for a lot cheaper. It has a different controller that slows down the write speeds, but it's not going to be noticeable for gaming)

[HardAct]

You guys are amazing and are why I come here for this shit. I really appreciate the advise the build suggestions etc. Only issue I have is some stuff is a bit off brand. 

 

I do agree with going with a corsair water cooler because of software, the m2 drives I know nothing about. And putting hds in a raid configuration I know even less about. I need to get rolling on this PC soon though, I'd say done in one month. I k ow now that I will be able to afford a 2080ti if I swap a few things around. 

 

I'll say it again, thanks so much for the advise. Please explain the m2 drives for me. How much space the windows 10 drive should have. I have to say this to. I do not care about being able to buy 10 dollar windows 10 keys on Ebay. I'm weird like this, I do not bootleg music, I pay for what I have. I have no problem spending the 99.99 for a windows 10 box and being honest. That said yes i felt like having a well built PC with solid names parts is worth the extra expense, though spending 3k right now for a 2080ti build isnt a good time, hard to justify right now. You guys showed me i can have it all, for around 2400 and that's where i feel I'm good.

 

Thanks so much all really really appreciated

[Spork3245]

1 hour ago, HardAct said:

You guys are amazing and are why I come here for this shit. I really appreciate the advise the build suggestions etc. Only issue I have is some stuff is a bit off brand. 

 

I do agree with going with a corsair water cooler because of software, the m2 drives I know nothing about. And putting hds in a raid configuration I know even less about. I need to get rolling on this PC soon though, I'd say done in one month. I k ow now that I will be able to afford a 2080ti if I swap a few things around. 

 

I'll say it again, thanks so much for the advise. Please explain the m2 drives for me. How much space the windows 10 drive should have. I have to say this to. I do not care about being able to buy 10 dollar windows 10 keys on Ebay. I'm weird like this, I do not bootleg music, I pay for what I have. I have no problem spending the 99.99 for a windows 10 box and being honest. That said yes i felt like having a well built PC with solid names parts is worth the extra expense, though spending 3k right now for a 2080ti build isnt a good time, hard to justify right now. You guys showed me i can have it all, for around 2400 and that's where i feel I'm good.

 

Thanks so much all really really appreciated

 

The Win10 keys are real 100% legal keys, not bootleg, not shady, not stolen. Win10 is available to download directly from MS, these are just digitally purchased keys. Buying the DVD for $99 is like buying the same Tyson brand chicken breast from Wholefoods for $8/pound while Shoprite has it for $2/pound - did Shoprite steal the chicken? No. Also, if you happen to know a student that goes to a participating school, MS will give them a key for free.

 

Which parts do you think are off-brand? Everything we have posted is name-brand from renown manufacturers/companies. The PC world changes a lot and rapidly, for example: just a few years ago PC Power & Cooling and Enermax were considered *THE* PSU brands to get, now they’re considered bottom-tier “good luck with your fried components” brands, while EVGA is considered the hands-down best followed by certain Corsair models.

 

For M.2 drives, it’s just a port on your motherboard, like PCIE or SATA, that these drives plug into. It has a lot more bandwidth than SATA and as such is faster. 256-500gb for your OS and app drive is more than enough, IMO. For your gaming drive I’d definitely go with “as big as you can afford”: currently, 1-2tb SSDs seem to go for the best prices.

 

Lastly, the build @cusideabelincoln posted, alongside my couple of edits, puts you right around $1.9k, not 3

[Spork3245]

@HardAct would you feel okay about it if I just bought you the Win10 code? I heard what you went through and wasn’t able to donate, but would very much rather you are able to put the $100 towards a 2080 Ti, as 4k gaming on anything less just isn’t really feasible and I know you’ll probably regret a base 2080 or especially a 2070

[HardAct]

 

3 hours ago, Spork3245 said:

@HardAct would you feel okay about it if I just bought you the Win10 code? I heard what you went through and wasn’t able to donate, but would very much rather you are able to put the $100 towards a 2080 Ti, as 4k gaming on anything less just isn’t really feasible and I know you’ll probably regret a base 2080 or especially a 2070

 Your all to kind. I'm kinda jumping the gun here. I get excited when I can concentrate on things like a new PC gaming rig or a new TV, then the costs are there looking me in the face and its unnerving to say the least. I'm going to to this but I'm now feeling guilty as this is a "me thing". 

 

I started to rapidly put together a new PC because the old laptop that had all our legal shit on it (from our the loss of our home in the camp fire) along with pictures and just so much personal shit just died 5 days ago! I was like COME ON, I NEED A FUCKING BREAK! I was able to do a backup transfer but I'm done with that 5 Year old specter laptop.

 

I do have my msi gaming laptop but I'm need another desktop. You all I knew were the place to go to start putting on together! You knowledge here is wonderful. The feel of comrodery is what I love the most. Do glad I have this outlet to get away from all that has happened. 

 

I thank you all and I mean it, thanks so much

[HardAct]

I have never used AMD processors and I have always had Geforce cards. I'm going to use the advise on the M2 drive and also getting a 1tb ssd's for gaking and everything else. Maybe another 500 gig for my pictures and music etc. I have a hard time not choosing Samsung, Intel, corsair, Nzxt, etc for parts as there what I know and have never  had an issue. I'm weird in that regards. I know many will look at what I have and see lots of money to be saved. I'm loyal to brands that have served me well in th he past. This will be my 6th personal built PC and I want it to be the bad ass PC I always dreamed of but with in reason of course.

 

My son and I were supposed to be building my next gaming PC together, hurts to know we will never do anything together again ever! Just virtually putting it together has been somewhat therapeutic, weird I know

 

[Spork3245]

40 minutes ago, HardAct said:

I have never used AMD processors and I have always had Geforce cards. I'm going to use the advise on the M2 drive and also getting a 1tb ssd's for gaking and everything else. Maybe another 500 gig for my pictures and music etc. I have a hard time not choosing Samsung, Intel, corsair, Nzxt, etc for parts as there what I know and have never  had an issue. I'm weird in that regards. I know many will look at what I have and see lots of money to be saved. I'm loyal to brands that have served me well in th he past. This will be my 6th personal built PC and I want it to be the bad ass PC I always dreamed of but with in reason of course.

 

My son and I were supposed to be building my next gaming PC together, hurts to know we will never do anything together again ever! Just virtually putting it together has been somewhat therapeutic, weird I know

 

 

These AMD CPUs match or exceed the performance of the Intels in your budget for less money. I totally get brand loyalty, but, the nVidia RTX 2080 Ti is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more important than getting a high-end Intel CPU unless you're doing all types of video editing or graphics design and whatnot. If you *really* want to go with Intel then hold off until a 9700k-9900k fits in your budget. But AMD is plenty reliable and a fine brand for CPUs... for GPUs... I mean... they're fine for budget mid-level cards, their high-end GPU lines are greatly lacking, so stick with nVidia for 4k gaming with your GPU.

 

As far as storage goes, the Samsung Pro M.2s are more-or-less the fastest out there, but, you really have to remember that none of these companies are actually "making" the SSDs, they are buying plates and controllers from other companies then just putting them together and sticking their logos on it. I forget who HP bought, but I think it's OCZ or one of the other top RAM companies from a few years ago for their SSDs, Western Digital did the same thing (maybe Kingston? Can't remember who bought who off the top of my head  ). Since you're already loyal to Intel, you should go with a second M.2 (if the mobo has two M.2 slots/ports!) for gaming and go with an Intel 660p, 2tb if it fits your budget (constantly goes on sale for the $180-190 range) if not, there's a SATA version of the 660p but I'm not sure if it goes on sale as often. HOWEVER, for storage of regular old data/pictures/video/music/documents, do NOT bother with an SSD. Remember that SSDs have shorter lifespans compared to typical HDDs. Get a 2-4tb 5400rpm or 7200rpm HDD from Western Digital, Hitachi, or Seagate for a hell of a lot less money than a third SSD.

 

For the Mobo, the Gigabyte mobo I linked to (for the AMD) is supposedly the best mobo out there for Ryzen and kicks the crap out of the ASUS equivalent.

[Keyser_Soze]

Also if you've built a PC previously and used windows 7 or 8 (for example) you can just deactivate that PC in your Microsoft account and use the old key on your new windows 10 install.

[HardAct]

    Dont know how I'd ever get to the old PC account link, it was about but that is interesting. Last PC I built but down in th he fire, it was windows 10. Can I somehow find that CD key and reuse it? And if so how do I do that? Last PC was about 4 years old? It's gone, never thought about that.....

[HardAct]

Ok I feel stupid, I logged into Microsoft.Com and under my account were 5 xbox's 2 laptops, and 2 desktop pc! I found my gaming windows 10 PC and where I can remove PC, but cant see where to access the windows 10 key? It was a retail bought at best buy windows 10 flash drive, so I guess if I can get the key I'd just download windows 10 kn a store bought flash drive as a boot drive and then use the old key to make it all legal like?

[Keyser_Soze]

Yep, you just need the install on a flash drive and the key you already have.

[HardAct]

That' the problem I can't access the key I look everywhere online, I don't have the old PC or the old box the drive came in we lost every single this we owned Nov 8th 2018 in the camp fire. seems like I'll have to remove the old PC and then contact Customer support to get the key, they don't have it listed under manage devices through Microsoft.com. So can I install windows 10 make it a boot drive from their site then when it comes to the activation screen contact them and have them remove the old PC thus them giving me my old key to put in the box?

[Keyser_Soze]

If they can give you the old key over the phone then I would probably ask them the same question on the phone, but yes it should work if it was the key tied to windows 10

[HardAct]

On 5/13/2019 at 3:45 PM, Spork3245 said:

Okay, first, remove Win10 - you can get keys on eBay for like $10

 

Second, can that case fit a 360mm Radiator (possibly front mounted)? I have a Cooler Master ML360 I bought but can't use as I didn't realize I had to remove my optical drive to fit it in my new case. I opened the box but never installed it - I'd sell it to for $100 + shipping. I paid like $150-160 for it. It's the RGB model. If not, I'd switch to a Corsair H100i or H115i as the NZXT has AWFUL software.

 

Third, switch to an AMD Ryzen CPU: https://www.walmart.com/ip/AMD-RYZEN-7-2700X-8-Core-3-7-GHz-4-3-GHz-Max-Boost-Socket-AM4-105W-Desktop-Processor-YD270XBGAFBOX-Free-Division-2-Gold-Edition-World-War-Z-purchase/555767145 as if you have fast RAM it should be very close to the i7 9900k in gaming, especially at 4k. Mobo: https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-X470-AORUS-ULTRA-GAMING/dp/B07BZ239Z2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549377638&sr=8-1&keywords=Gigabyte+X470+Aorus+Gaming+5+Wi-Fi

 

Fourth, get cheaper SSDs. I'd look at an M.2 for your boot SSD, Samsung is likely best for that, but you could also look at Crucial's MX series. For your gaming SSD, go with an ADATA or Crucial and save a boat load, a 1tb SSD should be under $100.

 

Fifth, get cheaper high MHZ low latency RAM: https://m.newegg.com/product/N82E16820331285?m_ver=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app (if you like pretty lights, otherwise: https://m.newegg.com/product/N82E16820233859?ignorebbr=1&m_ver=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app )

 

Those changes should be enough to get you to an RTX 2080 Ti:  https://store.zotac.com/zotac-gaming-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-amp-extreme-core-zt-t20810c-10p (use code SPRING120 for $120 off) or https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-GeForce-RTX-2080-Ti-DirectX-12-11G-P4-2281-KR-11GB-352-Bit-GDDR6-PCI-Expres/183729114414?epid=21031091016&hash=item2ac71bcd2e&enc=AQADAAADAFjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVROW1o0ZvehTCMDn81MscD2DSgwF0nc3AVaOmNWwijTmo1YYljlUHrzoEjwVQsEuviqD6Hbmu%2BOSXkvAY36g42rm3MDt4Czfgbx3edPDPVt1yk%2FIr19%2BwIzT7sGybFxlsdi4tHy6JdfpYE7gNIIkWn%2BqAei5I%2Bp8aCXIuiJS%2Bn1cFrQZ%2FitFjETpZdMzS3H9CPvZNSdmCyTtcHMzP%2BlD%2FvuDb1ZlBfp2jwld%2Fy8Q7X2%2FkhA0%2B7R%2BIuBWmYox%2BKAk9JTvYqsw4CIC87mB%2Bo9pTN2Iez8KV4s30bjDA4Omm6hTr37QHiYU%2BPqDBqC4u2qgv%2FtNlg7SFQkr8K%2FCcTbEuEj88NHDgzMuY4G4CunXyVnBs4d8afkYMSbC6SVQRniXwOX2Rj9aaf9jqxkXjpY4z0UmpxckhXh%2F4sA8l3CJuAho6yly5umpSWFY%2BfEZsdt8F%2BeK3vGmw7xXrXqELNAtJC6UdgA%2BtPjSnA2ucIkl%2BnY1CSdNjSVv54s%2BOCiUVryi0TF1%2FVsGBUTfuVywasEutADLG4Gl4EGtY5LYZ%2B7TafE%2FvsfUDhNDsAXh6It4xE7uIbYmbiMlgSkXT069hQeXhCH4FWzdFvOEb6t2WrNyzbXPvjPYOiACsoDCzy5sYg86dz%2B9Wi1u6C31rOVx0Z2gn%2FtH741R3%2FjQfQGLCnsOshkn336oW2eQlaRkEnwSAf%2F6DQOTpQhDnkkDuBzVzgLsKHnyvumTbicY2LIe5UzQ%2BLAzQpNfhIzRdqzlE%2F7sbfA6mTWky4M1Jq74qp4n7TP33F9lNGJbInFIIDpj0Av3gUrpTDPjpQDfiZ%2BqGVjPWkf6QlSB6F%2F5wdEjBnNLkOgquju1m2kAAny7RVJ5nN9zgYs0W3L0zzE%2Byoth12XSA2n0%2BxaYEAf86CC6fLLmW0zqP2B2PJoLPvInopHBcCly8qghA6f9QnT8c5Z3d9uo9x%2BVehFi0%2Fe0uzfZtUasDIiweFQ%3D%3D&checksum=1837291144148a481033615e4a009dd8e93710093624

 

@HardAct

BAMM !!!      click here ------>  Graphics Card

 

OMFG!! 

 

     I was building and rebuilding {on pcpartspicker.com} and then doing it again tonight. Then I clicked your link one more time @Spork3245 and put the Zotac card in the cart, put in the "Spring120" code and with my no tax free shipping options {I'm in Oregon} I just had to do it. So my build complete in my head was about 2500.00 and with this baby taking up 1079.99 I was able to build the PC of my dreams taking in some of the advise given here on the boards and I'm shaking i'm so excited. I went over 89 some odd dollars and still need the windows10 key. I'll post complete build costs and I thank you all. This will last be 5 years at least guys thanks so much . . .

 

Graphics card and the Highend PC Build

was a tiny bit worried about the Graphics card warrenty but I checked and it's 3 years, so that's AWESOM

 

I'll be buying the rest in the morning, it's almost 1am here and I have to tell the wife what I've done "FOR US"...lol

 

Zotac 2080Ti Extreme Amp edition 1079.99 shipped using the spring120 off code from Spork !!

Rest of this AMAZING build !!1509.44 shipped

 

Total: 2589.43 !! Thank guys, I'm smiling from ear to ear  . . . . . .

 

[HardAct]

So question?

 

I need a windows 10 64 bit key for this build right?

 

I'm right on track to play Doom Eternal day one on an amazing PC! Seems like I build a PC right around Doom launches, just coincidence but it's cool. I love the Doom games  . 

[Spork3245]

15 hours ago, HardAct said:

BAMM !!!      click here ------>  Graphics Card

 

OMFG!! 

 

     I was building and rebuilding {on pcpartspicker.com} and then doing it again tonight. Then I clicked your link one more time @Spork3245 and put the Zotac card in the cart, put in the "Spring120" code and with my no tax free shipping options {I'm in Oregon} I just had to do it. So my build complete in my head was about 2500.00 and with this baby taking up 1079.99 I was able to build the PC of my dreams taking in some of the advise given here on the boards and I'm shaking i'm so excited. I went over 89 some odd dollars and still need the windows10 key. I'll post complete build costs and I thank you all. This will last be 5 years at least guys thanks so much . . .

 

Graphics card and the Highend PC Build

was a tiny bit worried about the Graphics card warrenty but I checked and it's 3 years, so that's AWESOM

 

I'll be buying the rest in the morning, it's almost 1am here and I have to tell the wife what I've done "FOR US"...lol

 

Zotac 2080Ti Extreme Amp edition 1079.99 shipped using the spring120 off code from Spork !!

Rest of this AMAZING build !!1509.44 shipped

 

Total: 2589.43 !! Thank guys, I'm smiling from ear to ear  . . . . . .

 

 

Good, but I would recommend switching that SSD to an Intel 660p as you can get a 2tb for $30-ish more.  

 

15 hours ago, HardAct said:

So question?

 

I need a windows 10 64 bit key for this build right?

 

I'm right on track to play Doom Eternal day one on an amazing PC! Seems like I build a PC right around Doom launches, just coincidence but it's cool. I love the Doom games  . 

 

Yea, you'll need a Win 10 key unless you can call MS and obtain your previous key, in which case you can download Win 10 directly from MS and then just type in your key after installing it.

[HardAct]

Already bought everything I posted. What do you think of it? Should fucking rock unless I'm missing something. I upgraded to a 1tb ssd's for gaming and the 500 gig m2 drive for the operating system. The full 32 gigs 3200 ddr4 and the i7 9700k. I know I probable spent to much but I font upgrade often. This should me a great gamer for the next 4/5 years right? 

 

Thanks for the 120off code on the rtx card. Too. I spent an extra 37.87 buying all the parts from Amazon. Some were on the outletpc.com site, corsair site and from the zotec direct site, but used the Amazon card there too for the 5% cash back.

 

 

 

L

[cusideabelincoln]

The Core i9 9900k really wasn't that much more than the 9700k processor.  It would be a better investment than a high end liquid cooler.  Other than that it's a perfectly high end build with top notch parts.