cusideabelincoln

4 hours ago, AbsolutSurgen said:

The Hyte cases also have bottom mounted fans to blow air up from the bottom to give fresh air for an air cooled GPU.

As someone who currently has 12 case fans in a Lian Li O11... never again. Even with daisy chained fans the cable management still sucks. I will not have more than 6 fans in whatever my next build will be, and if the current convention is still around I'd simply have bottom mounted fans as intake and top mounted as exhaust to minimize any sort of turbulence.  I would then leave the side vents available for a distribution plate or pump/reservoir.  Also, with 12 RGB fans the theoretical max power draw is >70W. 70W just for fans is insane.

If ever spends gobs on a case, this would be it. The LCD screen is just too cool and looks like it belongs.

Although if you vertical mount the GPU, I would reverse the fan directions from the norm: Top/back as intake and side as exhaust since the pass-through air-flow on these big GPUs are blowing right towards that side vent. This may not be much, if any, real-world difference since the case is big enough to not have bad turbulence, but it shouldn't hurt.

The download link has been flagged for quarantine because of suspicious activity?

If Nintendo was involved wouldn't it just be taken down?

The system's potential will be wasted on 60 hz. Sales happen a lot and I'm sure he could get a 1440p 240hz for a good price within 6 months.

Of course if he plays esports shooters there are 360 and 500+ hz monitors available.

It's a very nice build, is the monitor decent or does he plan to buy a nice one? 240hz monitors are pretty affordable.

51 minutes ago, stepee said:

 

If you aren’t going to play for a week then that would make sense but if you want to dive in right away I have no problem just gifting it now! I’m subbing to EA Play on steam atm so I get 10% off already.

 

Let me know! And add me to Steam so I can gift pls: urblanky

I can wait.

1 hour ago, stepee said:

And to add to celebrating the death of this horrific piece of shit and because I’ve wanted to since he’s been helping us with pc hardware for years - @cusideabelincoln - what game?

I'm not dead yet!

I'm ready to play Jedi: Survivor, and you can wait for the Steam Winter sale. Thank my man 

515

A remaster of Ocarina of Time, except you get to play and see the story unfold from Zelda/Sheik's perspective.

34 minutes ago, Jwheel86 said:

 

I completely check out of PC hardware once I buy a PC so I just slapped that list together.

 

 

Is a liquid cooler needed? I don't plan to OC anything. 

 

 

Are any of those temps concerning? I don't notice a big difference when it revs down.  

A 14700k does need a liquid cooler. It uses a lot of power. 14600k or 13600k can get by with a good air cooler, but liquid is preferred. Compared to the old 7700k, these newer CPUs putting off 2-3 times heat and wattage.

Out of the box, these CPUs are designed to overclock themselves, and you can change these parameters. More power+performance = more heat, and vice versa. So technically you don't need liquid because you can configure the CPU to run at a lower power draw. You'll sacrifice maybe 5-10% gaming performance depending on how low you go. The biggest drop in performance comes in fully multithreaded applications that use the entire CPU at once.

If you were playing a game those temps look fine.

If you were doing nothing, then they are a bit high. Even the GPU is high.

I'd also guess you have some dust buildup in the heatsinks and radiators.  A good cleaning can help temps too.

And concerning his old PC:

IF you don't hear gurgling noises or any other weird noises coming from the water pump, I bet the thermal paste has just dried out too much which is causing more heat to build up. And this is an easy fix to keep the system running for whatever reason (sell it off, backup). edit: But if new paste doesn't fix the issue, and everything sounds fine, then there's probably gunk build-up inside which means replacement time (not an easy fix to do yourself, if at all possible).

3 minutes ago, Spork3245 said:

Unfortunately I checked and all the prices seem to be up from a couple weeks ago. Mostly looked at SK Hynix and Western Digital. I don’t know how Crucial P5 compares to the durability of the others mentioned or I’d have checked that too.

The P5 Plus is basically in the same class the 980 Pro and WD SN850. Sometimes it's better, sometimes not. And I've seen it be <$90 several times this year (even bought one). It's an awesome drive, with the same advertised endurance as the 980 pro.

It's a good upgrade, but you would need to do more demanding tasks or play more demanding games to really see the benefit.

Now considering that, there are a few changes I'd make.

-Downgrade the 14700k to the 13600k

-The 4060 Ti isn't a terribly great card because of the 8GB of VRAM. Games are starting to benefit from more than that, so in the future this can start to suck really bad. Even though there is a 16GB version of the 4060 Ti, it's not a good value. Even though I said what you currently do is fine, maybe something in the future catches your eye. In which case you should get a 4070 or consider the Radeon 7800XT

-DDR5 version of the motherboard along with DDR5 RAM.

-I believe there are some other SSDs almost as good (or sometimes better) than the 980 Pro for less. Prices fluctuate a lot though, thanks to sales.

On 12/7/2023 at 2:29 PM, best3444 said:

 

I absolutely fuckin agree. The open world Zelda game needs to stop. Go back to the traditional style with incredible dungeons and more polish for a smaller world. Unfortunately these two open world versions did extremely well so Nintendo may not go back. 

A brand new map would do wonders; even though TotK added so much it I had already explored the entire BotW portion before. With an upgraded Switch 2 they can increase the density and complexity even more, which could then mean a huge open world leading into huge dungeons.

1 hour ago, CitizenVectron said:

Listen...as the head of the IT service desk for a school division that is considering going 1:1 laptops with kids...we should ban all technology in schools. When you walk into school, you deposit your cell phone. The only computers should be in labs, and those classes should be dedicated to how to use the laptop/computer. Kids don't need a laptop for every class, and they certainly shouldn't have any distracting phones on them in the classroom. Yes, my job would likely disappear, but it's for the good of society.

 

Our director made a comment that to help save money to go 1:1, we could cut a few instructional aids since kids wouldn't need as much help in the classroom. I was like...what the fuck, you should remove all computers (which cost like $1.5 million per year in replacement/updating) and hire a bunch more instructional aids. I want more people in the classroom, or smaller classroom sizes.

Ban phones and let's welcome The Return of the Ti-84+. Surely no students would install Tetris [and other apps] on it; I mean I never did that 

RIGGED!

Learning has to compete with video games, social media, and streaming services, all of which have optimized ways to grab your attention through behavioral (sometimes predatory) manipulation, on top of just simply expanding access to users. Through these services kids have been exposed to an increasing amount of misinformation, disinformation, fear-mongering, and vapid, empty "content".  My nephew (11) will just spout complete untruths as actual "facts", and when you question him where he got that information he will say it was from a Youtuber. The TV "rotting" our brain was a scare tactic when I was a kid, but now the "TV" is unchained. It's understood that watching a show on TV is a work of fiction, because the people are actors and are just pretending. But that veil between fiction and reality gets thinner when kids watch social media, which is made up of other "real" people who are easier to connect with and believe. 

Increasing the rank, from single->dual->quad, is harder in the same way that increasing frequency is harder. If the memory sticks were to be of equal capabilities, it's easier for the IMC to run a higher frequency with a single rank set than it is with dual rank than it is for quad rank.

It's probably a combination, because those other timings are pretty bad too on the 3600 kit and maybe it has even worse other ones.

3 hours ago, Spork3245 said:

Tried another 5900x. Everything works with this other CPU installed. Looks like it's the CPU's IMC going bad or something. Now I get to call AMD on Monday to see how their CS is. Joy!

 

Something interesting: I ran this 5900x with the new 3600mhz C18 RAM, rebooted multiple times, no issue, ran Cyberpunk (4k, max settings w/path tracing, DLSS at quality and DLSS at balanced two runs each), then installed my old 3000mhz C15 RAM, did the same including Cyberpunk... and Cyberpunk's bench results were consistently 2-3fps faster on avg with the 3000mhz RAM. I guess the 5900x prefers latency over speed. For awhile I've been wondering if I should "upgrade" to faster memory, and I guess that's a big N.O.  

Interesting, I really hope my Ryzen doesn't do this as I've heard it can happen with any of the 5000 chips.

Overall Ryzen does prefer latency, since the bandwidth cap is around DDR3800 due to the Infinity fabric limitations. But 3000c15 should theoretically be the same latency as 3600c18 (10ns), assuming the other timings are proportionally similar. If you're running four dual rank sticks, that means you're in a quad rank configuration which effectively increases your bandwidth.

Damn, I just tried the double frame gen. You won't believe the results!

Not sure about return policy. Sounds risky. Good chance of getting charged a restocking fee at best.

Also reading over this again... could still be motherboard training (training is when it autodetermines the timings) issue.

7 hours ago, Spork3245 said:

So the RMA replacement motherboard started doing the same issue on Tuesday, however, flashing the BIOS no longer fixes the issue.

I remembered that I had an (extremely) old pair of GSkill Ripjaw memory (2400mhz C15) from an X99 build. Tried that, Windows booted. Went back to the 3000mhz C15 Corsair RAM but only with two of the sticks in DIMMs 2 and 4 (same I tried the GSkill in), Windows booted, tried reinstalling the other two Corsair sticks, same issue, removed all 4, put the “working” two in DIMMs 1 and 3, Windows would not boot. “Okay, bad DIMM?” I thought, so I moved the two back to 2 and 4, same thing. “Did I mix up the RAM?”, swapped the pair for the other Corsair, same issue. Went back to the GSkill, worked.

Ordered a new set of RAM, 64gb (2x32gb) Corsair 3600mhz C18, came yesterday… same issue. GSkill still works. Even tried running each of the Corsair sets at default (non-XMP/DOCP) settings as well as matching the (slower) GSkill ram, and going as far to attempt to run the Corsair as low as 1833mhz: Windows won’t load regardless, and same as before, trying Windows installer from a bootable USB gives me the same problem (even with the m.2 with Windows on it disconnected).

 

I’m at a complete loss on what the issue could possibly be.

Ones that can cause booting issues:

tRFC: this is pretty picky. Some sticks can do crazy low timings, others have to be 3x or 4x the timing. This also changes with frequency. At 3600 Mhz a "safe" value should for most sticks is 630 or more. At 2400 Mhz this can be >420, at 3200 MHz it can be >560.

tCL: A main timing, 16 or 18 should work across the board. Must be an even value when Gear Down Mode is enabled.

tRCDRD: Another main timing, some memory sticks can't go low. 20 or more is super safe, although really good mem can do 14.

tRC: Can vary wildly between different types of memory chips and frequency. Some can do 40, others need 60+. 80 is probably safe across the board.

tRDRDSD: This should only affect Dual-Rank sticks. Really good mem can do 1 or 2, but a super safe number is like 8.

tWRWRSD: This should only affect Dual-Rank sticks. Really good mem can do 1 or 2, but a super safe value is 8.

tRDRDDD: This should only matter when you have 4 sticks in the slots.

tWRWRDD: This should only matter when you have 4 sticks in the slots. 

tRDRDSCL: >5 is super safe, don't set this too low

tWRWRSCL: >5 is super safe, don't set this too low.

tRDWR

tWRRD

These two kind of work together. You usually can't set both of them to lower values. One needs to be kind of low, and the other higher. 

Also if you get the G.skill back in and booted up, download a program called ZenTimings and we can see what your motherboard is setting the default values to for a baseline to compare against the Corsair sticks.

You could also run a test on the IMC/Infinity fabric. To do so, you need a program called OCCT and the latest version of Prime95. You run OCCT's VRAM stability benchmark and then run Prime95's LargeFFT at the same time. OCCT will report WHEA errors fairly quickly if there's an issue.

44 minutes ago, Spork3245 said:

 

I just got this motherboard, I RMA'd my previous and ASUS sent me this one (September iirc). Unless you think it's the IMC on the CPU? Is the GSkill Single Rank RAM (I have no idea)? It's Ripjaws series.

IMC is only on the CPU. The motherboard is just there to provide a physical connection between the CPU and RAM and control voltages. With higher speed memory a better quality motherboard means better quality physical traces to the CPU which helps prevent signal loss and electromagnetic interference.

I have no idea if the G.skill is single or dual rank, but I just assume single rank since you said it was older. But that also depends on the capacity, as it could easily be dual-rank. However maybe some of the other subtimings are more relaxed.

I would try these settings first at the JEDEC standard 2400 MHz with default timings on the new Corsair set:

VDIMM (RAM voltage): 1.35V

2T command rate, much easier on the memory controller.

Gear Down Mode: Enabled (should auto to enabled anyway)

SoC voltage: 1.05 to 1.15V

VDDG-IOD: 0.95 to 1.05V (make sure this is always at least .04V less than SoC)

See how those go, if a no go then try...

ProcODT: Start at 40 Ohm, and work your way up to 80 Ohm if it fails

ClkDrvStr: Start at 20 Ohm and work your way up to 120 Ohm. The three other DrvStr you can leave on auto.

14 minutes ago, Spork3245 said:

 

The sticks in question were working for 3+ years in this system, no changes were made. The new RAM was purchased when I saw that the GSkill RAM worked as I assumed the old Corsair RAM must be bad, CMOS was cleared and various timings + voltages (even dropping speed down to 1833mhz) was tried on the new 3600mhz RAM. Just tried the old Corsair RAM in my Dad's Intel system, it worked fine.

Starting to sound like a degraded memory controller since the lower-stress G.skill works, but then the dual-rank and quad-rank setups are harder on the memory controller and don't work.

Again SoC and VDDG-IOD voltages are specifically for the memory controller so those should be the only voltages you need to change to help the CPU out, if possible.

Command Rate, Gear Down Mode, ProcODT and the various DrvStr values can also have an effect on stability and could be worth changing to attempt to get the system running.